Fairfield-Echo

Q During a recent oil change, a technician advised that the coolant level in my 2002 Chevrolet Impala with 50,000 miles was low. I later added coolant to the proper mark and monitored the level. When the coolant level dropped again, I replaced the radiator cap. After three months the coolant level remains at the proper level, but the low coolant indicator light periodically turns on. It usually turns off after a block or two of travel. The coolant level is perfectly fine, and the engine temperature is normal. What's up with the low coolant light? T.M., Roseville, Minn.

A This doesn't appear to be anything serious. Check the coolant level in the morning before you take off for the day. It might be a little low. If needed, add an antifreeze and water mixture to protect against freezing to about 40 or 45 degrees below zero for your area. This should turn off the light until the next time the level drops. If the light continues to blink, a sensor in the coolant recovery tank probably has deposits on it. If you are a do-it-yourselfer, remove the sensor and clean it with soap and water. Deposits on the sensor is an indication that the coolant in the system is in need of a change. A thorough flush may be in order. Consider taking the car to a repair shop for this service, as an improper flush may cause conditions within the engine that can be extremely corrosive to metal and gaskets within.

Vibration and speedometer raise suspicion

Q My wife drives a 2001 Hyundai Elantra with 119,000 miles. There is a vibration in the front end above 45 mph. The front end was checked, but no problems were found. A dealer parts department person suggested that the vibration might be caused by the tires. Recently the car was in for an oil change. When the car went into the garage, it had 115,000 miles on the odometer and when it came out it had 119,000 miles on it. It's as if someone messed with the odometer. When I ask the dealer service manager about this, he said that to correct the trouble would be an expensive repair. In addition to all of this, when it is cold outside, the engine hesitates upon starting and when driving. I poured an additive into the fuel tank and this seems to help. What do you think about these problems? R.M., e-mail

A The vibration could indeed be caused by tires that are out of balance or have excessive run-out. If they are not out of round, balancing should cure the trouble. As for the odometer problem, it's highly unlikely that the odometer jumped 4,000 miles during the oil change. However, to fix the trouble is expensive and at the very least would require replacement of the speedometer head and odometer. Wait a while and see if it jumps again. As for the hesitation, a thorough cleaning of the throttle body or mass air flow sensor units might cure the condition until the next time deposits impair the parts.

Need Heat

Q The heater in my 1996 Chrysler Cirrus doesn't heat very well. When the temperature is near zero the windows defrost very slowly and my feet get cold.To fix the trouble I have had the radiator and heater core flushed. Also, the thermostat has been changed. I'm beginning to wonder if this car just doesn't have good heater.Do you have any suggestions? B.T., e-mail

A On a frigid day it may take 10 miles of travel before the engine reaches full operating temperature. Once it does the heater should produce plenty of heat. Technicians normally take temperature readings at the center dash vent with the heater blower and temperature set on high. I've seen temperatures as high as 150 degrees. If you have a baking thermometer set the heater controls to high heat and high blower. Place the thermometer in the center vent. Once the engine warms to full operating temperature check the vent temperature. Drive the vehicle to make sure it heats to full operating temperature. You may be surprised at how hot the air blowing from the vent really is. However, if the temperature is not 110 degrees or higher there is work to be done. It's possible that the thermostat is not functioning as designed. It might be opening too soon. Perhaps the water flow valve in the system isn't opening all the way. This reduces the volume of hot engine coolant to the heater. Maybe the heater core has restrictions. Just maybe the diverter doors in the ducts aren't functioning as designed. An experienced technician can verify any of these conditions. If so replacement of the faulty part should cure the trouble so you are as warm as toast.

Cruise Not Cruising

Q The cruise control in my 1990 Buick LeSabre is not working. I replaced the switch but this did not cure the trouble.When I engage the cruise control the light on the dash illuminates but it doesn't hold a steady speed. What else can I do? J.B., e-mail

A If everything else in the car is working as designed it's likely the cruise control servo unit has a fault. Tests can verify a fault. Before you take the vehicle to a technician for testing you might be able to do some investigation at home. If you have a repair manual follow the procedures for adjusting the linkage. Also, you can check the diaphragm in the servo for vacuum leaks if you have a vacuum pump. Also, check the electrical connections for security and corrosion. Correct electrical connection impairments as needed.If the linkage is in proper adjustment, vacuum is steady and external electrical connections are fine it is more likely than not that the servo has an internal fault. If this is found to be true replacement is the cure.

Substandard Brake Repairs

Q Recently I had the front brakes replaced on my 1996 Dodge Dakota SS Magnum. Since the repair when I apply the brakes even at low speeds the left front tire squeals. Is it braking before the brakes on the other wheels? Is this caused by a faulty caliper? G.R., San Angelo, Texas

A This should not be occurring. Take the vehicle back to the shop that repaired the brakes. The trouble could be the result of shoddy work or perhaps a stuck caliper. It's also possible that the tires are not properly inflated. In any case return to the repair shop.The technician who did the work should not have released the vehicle to you with this condition. If he test drove the vehicle after doing the work he would have discovered the trouble. If he did discover this problem before releasing the vehicle, he should have explained the trouble to you. He also should have told you what it would take to repair it. If he did tell you and you didn't authorize the work, shame on you. This problem causes unequal braking and could impair your ability to control the vehicle in an emergency. Have this corrected right away.

Recheck Repair Work

Q Recently I replaced the water pump in my 1994 Nissan Maxima. Now there is a bad water leak that appears to be from the thermostat housing. Where do you think it is leaking? J.D.J., e-mail

A On your vehicle there is a cover that hides the thermostat housing and water pump. The thermostat and water pump are in close proximity to each other with the thermostat housing located just above and to one side of the water pump. If the thermostat housing wasn't leaking before the water pump replacement and it wasn't removed during the water pump replacement operation then the leak is probably from the water pump. However, it is likely you removed the thermostat housing. If this is the case it's possible the gaskets were not aligned during installation. As a result there is a profuse leak. Recheck your work. Replace parts as needed.