Fairfield-Echo

Q I read about a reader who submitted a question regarding a sticky transmission shift lever. I had the same problem and dealer personnel immediately said that the transmission needed replacement. The cost for the work was $4,000. The first replacement transmission they installed didn't fix the trouble. The second transmission they installed leaked after one month.

What was the outcome of the transmission that I read about in your column? T.A.B., e-mail

A You must be referring to G.N. who nearly had to yank the shift lever out of his car to move it into gear. He went to a repair shop where he was told that the transmission needed replacement. Then he went to a dealership where he was told that it would cost $450 to repair. He did not send a follow-up letter regarding the repair.

Another reader sent in a letter with a good suggestion. B.H. stated that he had encountered sticky shifter levers in a few cars. He fixed the trouble by cleaning the shift mechanism in the center console. He stated that years of dust and spilled drinks caused the shifters to bind. Cleaning restored normal function. This is one tried-and-true method of curing such a condition.

900-mile oil consumption isn't unreasonable

Q Recently in your column a Cadillac owner said that his car was using a quart of oil every

My 1990 Lincoln Town car has 136,000 miles on it and it doesn't use a quart in between changes. The same goes for my 1993 Lincoln with 106,000 miles and my 1997 Ford

F-250 pickup with 180,000 miles. If I had a car that burned a quart of oil in between oil changes, I would get rid of it.

How can burning a quart of oil in between oil changes be normal? F.H., Martindale, Texas.

A Actually, I quoted what General Motors says is acceptable oil consumption. My position is that it is rare for an engine in good condition to consume a quart of oil under normal driving conditions in between 3,000-mile oil change intervals. Of course an engine in good condition that is used to tow, driven aggressively or is used as a taxi service may consume more oil.

Back in the 1990 model year when your Lincoln was built, Ford Motor Co. set a standard for oil consumption. The company line was stated in a technical service bulletin. It says that it is acceptable for an engine to consume a quart of oil in 900 miles. According to the technical service bulletin, if an engine consumed a quart in less than 900 miles, the engine needed major repair. Back then you would have been thankful that your Lincoln didn't burn that much oil, for if it did consume, let's say, a quart of oil every 1,000 miles, in all likelihood Ford Motor Co. would have refused warranty repairs under the position that their engine oil consumption standard was a quart consumed 900 miles is acceptable and normal. I would definitely agree that an engine driven under normal conditions that consumes that much oil might need repair, but under aggressive driving conditions or heavy loads, this too might have been acceptable back then or even today.

Fuel mileage drops after collision

Q Up until my 2004 Toyota Camry was damaged in an accident it always attained 23 mpg. After the collision the car gets between 18 and 20 mpg. What caused the reduction in fuel economy? R.N., e-mail

A In your note you stated that the car received $8,000 in damages. By today's standard this is not an excessive amount of damage but it is substantial. It's not likely there is something mechanically or electronically amiss in the engine or transmission. If this were the case the check engine light would illuminate alerting you to a malfunction.

Check the tires for proper inflation. The pressure should be checked when the tires are cold. If the tires are over inflated reduce the pressure as needed. If the pressure is low travel no further than a mile to an air pump to inflate the tires to the recommended pressure.

Check the air filter. Sometimes dust and paint from the body shop clogs the filter. Replace it if needed.

Also, it's possible the wheels are not in proper alignment. If so this causes resistance that reduces fuel economy. Return to the body shop to have the alignment checked and adjusted as needed.

Hydraulic or electrical snafu impairs overdrive

Q The overdrive light illuminates in my 1989 Dodge Dakota with a V-6 engine. I've owned this vehicle since it was brand new. Up until now the truck has been running fine. Recently during the winter months the overdrive light was turning on. A mechanic replaced the transmission. When this didn't fix the trouble he replaced a failed switch that was inside the newly installed transmission. This didn't do the trick so he replaced the computer. None of these repairs cured the trouble. As a last resort I replaced the overdrive switch to no avail.

Once summer temperatures arrived the transmission began to operate normally and the overdrive light has not been turning on. I'm fearful that once cold weather returns the problem will return too. What do you suggest I do? N.C., e-mail

A This might be caused by a loss of hydraulic pressure in the overdrive. If so the condition could cause the clutches to burn. When the weather turns cold and the transmission begins its antics ask a technician to consider performing a hydraulic pressure check. He may find that pressure is too low. If so it's likely the transmission will need to be removed to check internal parts for faults that lead to such a condition.

It's also possible that there is an electrical issue such as faulty connections at the transmission. After years of exposure to the elements the wiring may suffer from corrosion. If so it may be necessary to replace the wiring harness to the transmission.

Differential gears howl and vibrate

Q Recently I had my 1990 Nissan 300ZX to a dealer shop for a tune-up and timing belt replacement. I've owned this car since it was brand new. The work was not completed on time due to a lack of parts. The servicing technician asked if he could keep the car over the weekend to complete the work. I agreed.

When I picked up the car the following week I immediately felt a vibration and heard a noise that wasn't there when I brought the car to the shop. I returned several times to the shop but the trouble was not resolved. The tires and brakes were replaced but the vibration and noise continue.

I feel the vibration in the seats and floor. Also, the noise seems to come from the rear. What do you think causes this condition? M.M., e-mail

A If the noise is a howling and growling sound it's likely there is trouble in the differential. A bearing may have failed. When this occurs the gears develop sounds that increase with speed. Often a vibration develops as well.

A technician can verify this type of failure by checking the lubricant. It's likely contaminated with a high level of metal. If this turns out to be true, the differential needs an overhaul.

Shock replacement is a dangerous job

QThe rear shock absorbers in my 1994 Ford Crown Victoria are shot. I'd like to replace them myself. How do I get to the top nut that secures the shock? B.B., e-mail

A To remove the shocks you'll need to raise the car while supporting the rear axle assembly. Make sure you properly support the car, block the front wheels and support the axle assembly or the car could tumble and you could be crushed. I don't want this to happen to you.

With a little luck the top nut is likely under a cap in the trunk just above the right and left wheel wells. Good luck with your project.

Phil Arendt is an automotive columnist, consultant and

ASE-certified master technician. E-mail him on the Web at

www.drgizmo.ws.